| On
the nose
Author:
Jeni Port | Date: 15/04/2003
Publication: The Age | Section: Epicure | Page:
20
...Sure,
we need great pinot noir to inspire us, but we also need good
everyday pinot noir to get close to, to like and to understand.
Thank
goodness for a producer like Merricks Creek on the Mornington
Peninsula.
Merricks
Creek is a vineyard devoted entirely to pinot noir, the creation
of DR Peter Parker, a doctor of psychology, and his wife, Georgina.
The enthusiastic Parkers admit they are new to the whole pinot
"thing", which is why they have approached their wine
marketing a little differently to most.
They
make four separate pinots, each at a different price point from
$22 to $45 a bottle.
For
$2, visitors to their pretty, Mediterranean-flavoured, open-air
cellar door can try a taste "flight" of all four wines
and see the viticultural and wine-making progression from wine
to wine. As far as enlightenment goes, it's considerably cheaper
than $780.
The
starting point is the $22 Young Vines that receives the least
oak and is vibrantly fruity. Next step up is the utterly addictive
Merricks pinot noir ($37), which spent almost two years in 75
per cent new oak. It's followed by the Close Planted pinot ($43)
which spent two years in 100 per cent oak and culminates in the
Nick Farr pinot ($45) made by friend and Bannockburn-based wine
maker, Nick Farr (son of Bannockburn founding maker, Gary).
The
Young Vines is delicious and keenly priced but there was pressure
on the Parkers to set the price higher.
"We
had huge pressure on us to make it dearer," says Georgina
Parker, a women bubbling with energy (she's the face of Merricks
Creek while her husband works as a child psychotherapist by day).
"People thought we were under-selling ourselves."
Or
perhaps they thought they were underselling the Mornington Peninsula,
a region with a premium pinot reputation to maintain.
The
$22 wine is a big seller while the $45 wine, a seriously rich,
exotic pinot, tends to divide people's tastebuds (a common occurrence
once you enter into the world of the premium pinot).
What
if Merricks Creek only offered the $45 wine? "Oh God, you
would absolutely lose people with that one. People either love
it or hate it," says Georgina Parker.
Perhaps
that's why, inspired by the response from their customers, the
Parkers are toying with the idea of producing a fifth style, an
$18 pinot noir, this vintage.
DR
Peter Parker talks about making pinot for the people, especially
young drinkers.
"I
would like to begin teaching them at the cellar door how to enjoy
its subtleties, perhaps by comparing different pinots made from
different clones, oaking levels, ripenesses and wine makers,"
he says.
I
say more power to Merricks Creek.
Full
transcript here
Back
to top
|